As commuters rush home at day's end, beneath Royal Palace gold spires in the historical center of Bangkok at Sanam Luang, political will finds expression. Chants of cynical citizens are heard blocks away at the backpacker's ghetto of Khaosan. Son, permanent fixture of The Road, can find no word other than 'festival' to respond to our query regarding the commotion, which is faintly visible from the roof-level bar of the D&D Inn. He is the most nervous of us--while locals enter the area freely, we are frisked promptly by soldiers with automatic weapons.
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